Many different criteria go into defining green products. Specific to building products, some products qualify as green in several different categories. Other products do not qualify as green at all but they help in reducing carbon emissions of a building, such as windows. And sometimes a so-called green product requires a judgement as to whether it is, in fact, green. For commercial building projects, the judgement can be made by many entities. Municipal governments have their own criteria for judging whether a building and its components meet green standards, both for residential and commercial projects. LEED (Leadership in Energy & Environmental Design) is the primary internationally recognized green building certification system, providing third-party verification that a building or community was designed and built using strategies intended to improve performance in metrics such as energy savings, water efficiency, CO2 emissions reduction, improved indoor environmental quality, and stewardship of resources and sensitivity to their impacts. The main organization leading the way in green building certification is the Green Building Certification Institute (GBCI). The GBCI was established by the U.S. Green Building Council (USGBC) to provide a series of exams to allow individuals to become accredited for their knowledge of the LEED rating system. GBCI also provides third-party certification for projects pursuing LEED. Up until 2008, LEED applied mainly to commercial building projects. However in 2008, the USGBC established a LEED system for new residential buildings and produced guidelines for remodeling residential homes with green objectives. Currently there are 6 principles of environmental stewardship according to the USGBC:
- Advocacy for Safe Products and Services
- Protection of the Biosphere
- Sustainable Use of Natural Resources
- Waste reduction
- Wise Use of energy
- Reduction of risk
Application of these principles determines if a product is, in fact, green. Not only must we consider if the product is safe and uses natural resources and energy responsibly with minimal waste, but we must consider if transporting a green product half way around the globe can be considered green. An interesting product to examine for example is bamboo flooring. While bamboo is most definitely a green product, it may not be the greenest solution for flooring. The carbon foot print of bamboo becomes quite large if it must be transported from remote regions of the world. A better alternative might be wood flooring produced from local FSC certified sustainable forests. Relying on local, sustainable products should be our first choice for all consumables, not just building products. Not only do local sustainable products help our environment; they aid our local economy. Of course there is other criteria when making choices for our families, homes, and businesses. Aesthetics is certainly a major consideration as well. But as responsible world citizens, the environment should be at the top of our list of priorities.
So in conclusion, when making a purchasing decision, consider all aspects of what classifies a product as green. A product advertised or promoted, as green by an overzealous merchandiser may not be the greenest choice you have, or worse, may not be green at all.
Thursday, August 5, 2010
Tuesday, July 27, 2010
Kitchen Remodeling Design Tips
Use glass tile for vertical applications. Glass tile tends to be a bit more expensive than ceramics. So to keep a handle on the budget, just use it as an accent to inject that pop of color along with coordinating ceramic tile.
Glass front cabinets are really pretty. But try to limit the number of cabinets with glass to keep your kitchen looking tidy. Don’t forget the lighting inside the cabinets with glass fronts. You can use different glass patterns instead of plain clear glass to add more sparkle to the design.
Our goal when remodeling these days is to open up the kitchen as much as possible to the rest of the house. But do not sacrifice all of your upper cabinets for that design plan. Be sure to have well placed upper cabinets in close proximity to a sink for drinking glasses. Cabinets for dishes and bowls should be placed close to the dishwasher for easy unloading.
Islands can be a great way to expand storage in a kitchen. Clearance around an island for 2 people should be at least 48 inches. When an island has appliances in it or the appliances oppose the island, make sure there is enough space for all the appliance doors to open.
The sink, refrigerator, oven, range or cooktop, and microwave should always have counter top space on either side for placing plates and pans. The width of the space should be a minimum of 15 inches. More is best but sometimes not possible. An opposing island is a good alternative.
Leave enough space for one person to stand to the side of a dishwasher to load it. This normally is not a problem in a rectangular shaped kitchen. But in a kitchen with angles, this could be a problem. Your designer should always draw design plans displaying appliance doors open to demonstrate adequate spacing.
Traffic patterns should not intersect the work triangle area. That means your kitchen should not be used as a hallway. This is also true for utility or laundry rooms.
The optimum height microwaves should be as follows: the bottom should be at counter height to eye level of the user. That would be 36 inches to 54 inches off the finished floor.
When replacing old vinyl flooring in a kitchen, you really should replace counter tops at the same time if you have a dishwasher. Flooring companies have no problem land locking a dishwasher with new tile in order to make the sale. But this is WRONG. As a water appliance, you should always be able to pull your dishwasher out for service. Flooring companies will tell you just to keep spare tile and pop out a couple of tiles to service the dishwasher and repair the tile. What they don’t tell you is the grout is never going to match again. If you run out of tile at some point, the tile may be discontinued and you are out of luck. If you replace the counter tops at the same time as the flooring, we can raise the counters just a bit to allow for the new flooring installed under the dishwasher and this never becomes an issue.
Task or under cabinet lighting should always be considered in a kitchen remodel. If you are doing the back splash, be sure to have your electrician hard wire your task lighting.
Plugs are a necessary evil for back splashes and can really interfere with a gorgeous back splash design. One solution is to have your electrician move the receptacles up to the top of the back splash, just under the upper cabinets.
We at BK Design Associates, do not like composite material cabinets. Kitchens and baths are wet areas. Particle board and MDF are subject to swelling if they come in contact with water. Composite material cabinets are constructed with glues and can emit dangerous gases. Solid wood cabinets are far superior to composite material cabinets. And surprisingly, our solid wood cabinets are only slightly more expensive than the lower end composites.
Glass front cabinets are really pretty. But try to limit the number of cabinets with glass to keep your kitchen looking tidy. Don’t forget the lighting inside the cabinets with glass fronts. You can use different glass patterns instead of plain clear glass to add more sparkle to the design.
Our goal when remodeling these days is to open up the kitchen as much as possible to the rest of the house. But do not sacrifice all of your upper cabinets for that design plan. Be sure to have well placed upper cabinets in close proximity to a sink for drinking glasses. Cabinets for dishes and bowls should be placed close to the dishwasher for easy unloading.
Islands can be a great way to expand storage in a kitchen. Clearance around an island for 2 people should be at least 48 inches. When an island has appliances in it or the appliances oppose the island, make sure there is enough space for all the appliance doors to open.
The sink, refrigerator, oven, range or cooktop, and microwave should always have counter top space on either side for placing plates and pans. The width of the space should be a minimum of 15 inches. More is best but sometimes not possible. An opposing island is a good alternative.
Leave enough space for one person to stand to the side of a dishwasher to load it. This normally is not a problem in a rectangular shaped kitchen. But in a kitchen with angles, this could be a problem. Your designer should always draw design plans displaying appliance doors open to demonstrate adequate spacing.
Traffic patterns should not intersect the work triangle area. That means your kitchen should not be used as a hallway. This is also true for utility or laundry rooms.
The optimum height microwaves should be as follows: the bottom should be at counter height to eye level of the user. That would be 36 inches to 54 inches off the finished floor.
When replacing old vinyl flooring in a kitchen, you really should replace counter tops at the same time if you have a dishwasher. Flooring companies have no problem land locking a dishwasher with new tile in order to make the sale. But this is WRONG. As a water appliance, you should always be able to pull your dishwasher out for service. Flooring companies will tell you just to keep spare tile and pop out a couple of tiles to service the dishwasher and repair the tile. What they don’t tell you is the grout is never going to match again. If you run out of tile at some point, the tile may be discontinued and you are out of luck. If you replace the counter tops at the same time as the flooring, we can raise the counters just a bit to allow for the new flooring installed under the dishwasher and this never becomes an issue.
Task or under cabinet lighting should always be considered in a kitchen remodel. If you are doing the back splash, be sure to have your electrician hard wire your task lighting.
Plugs are a necessary evil for back splashes and can really interfere with a gorgeous back splash design. One solution is to have your electrician move the receptacles up to the top of the back splash, just under the upper cabinets.
We at BK Design Associates, do not like composite material cabinets. Kitchens and baths are wet areas. Particle board and MDF are subject to swelling if they come in contact with water. Composite material cabinets are constructed with glues and can emit dangerous gases. Solid wood cabinets are far superior to composite material cabinets. And surprisingly, our solid wood cabinets are only slightly more expensive than the lower end composites.
Wednesday, June 30, 2010
Power and Cord Management
Here is a wonderful, innovative product for easy access to power and data on your desk top. Size is 15-7/8" long by 4-3/8" wide by 4-3/8" deep. It's configured with 3 power outlets, 3 data ports, and 1 VGA connection. The built-in power strip is equipped with a photo-electric eye that prevents it from rotating when in use. Please call us if you would like more information. BK Design Associates 281-531-4242.
Thursday, June 10, 2010
2010 Color Trends and Environmental Influences
There is a huge surge of interest in 'going green' and focusing on organic or environmentally friendly products. With it has brought us consumer products in colors that relate to all the attributes of life…water, light, earth, and atmosphere, from paint to fabrics to cars.
Blue relates to the oceans and water, which is essential to life. Derivatives of blues are relaxing and promote tranquility, peace. Yellows, reds, corals, and coppers relate to flames, in particular the sun and light. They are vibrant and promote vitality. Earth tones naturally relate to soil and metals. Grays and browns are neutral in color and help promote comfort and give us an opportunity to create pleasing contrasting palets of color. Light neutral whites, beiges, and creams relate to air and our atmosphere and promote serenity. They are ethereal, with a weightless luminescence becoming somewhat spiritual. All of these components lead us to green, the symbolic poster color for life. Green is mother nature’s neutral. Botanical elements in a design convey renewal, rebirth, and growth providing a sense of serenity and revitalization.
FOUR COLOUR THEMES FOR 2010
First up are the thoughts from Lee Eiseman, Pantone Colour Institute.
1. Molecular
Includes a purpled wine, a very deep green, a navy black and a coffee brown
2. Byzantine
Includes metallics, shimmery gold, rich reds, vibrant blues and purples.
3. Deconstructing – Reconstructing:
Includes ochre, brown and black are accented with topiary greens and lipstick red.
4. Multiple Identity:
Includes blues, irises and browns along with pink, browns, and roses.
TOP 10 COLOUR TRENDS FOR 2010
Here are the thoughts of Victoria Redshaw, from Trend Forecasters, Scarlet Opus.
1. TURQUOISE: 2010 is a big year for blue and a strong shade of turquoise sets a summery tone that is sure to give an upbeat vibe. Turquoise is very versatile and looks amazing with all sorts of unexpected colours such as Red, Hot Pink, Coral, Chocolate, Malachite Green, Mellow Yellow and Grey!
2. INDIGO: The blue renaissance continues with a deep Indigo. It’s the new Black! It plays a crucial part in moving the whole ‘tribal’ trend forward and gives a sophisticated African aesthetic.
3. MELLOW YELLOW: Get in the mood with Mimosa! It’s time to rethink Yellow and team it with some trendy partners like Grey or Indigo. Yes it gives us a sun-shiney vibe but it can also create very sophisticated room schemes, is unisex and projects colour-confidence without being ‘in your face’!
4. COPPER: Metallics move away from Yellow-Gold towards warmer Copper tones. Expect to also see Bronze and Rose-tinted Golds…and Blackened Gold!
5. GREEN: From Moss to Malachite, Kelly to Chlorophyll…greens are used in 2010 as a literal expression of Green issues being so high profile. Look out for sharp Lime accents popping up in unexpected places!
6. RED: A bold block of rich red delivers sumptuous glamour to dark room schemes and
is also a fantastic peppy accent colour for existing neutral or black & white rooms.
7. PUTTY: 2010 is a year dominated by femininity in design…curvaceous furniture
shapes, soft handle fabrics and nude tones including shades of putty, intimate pinks andsoft blush peach.
8. GREY: This new neutral is here to stay! Use shades of Grey in the same way as you
would cream, beige or white as it works with just about every colour you can think of.
9. CORAL: Striking Coral shades alongside Pink jewel tones and rich Maroons provide an exotic vibe…but Coral can also play a starring role in neutral room schemes that have a calm, beachy aesthetic. It looks great next to the pebble Grey shade!
10. WHITE: It’s the future!
Summing up, yellow, green, and grey will be great colors to work with if you're planning a remodel in 2010. Yellow brings a vibrancy like no other while green is calming and soothing. Combined they can make quite a statement. Just be careful not to overstimulate the yellow. Use yellow in a kitchen, it can stimulate and motivate and even aid in digestion. Another great combination is yellow with grey. This combination is sophisticated and stylish. Meanwhile, using green in a bedroom can create a calming, earthy escape. Purple will also begin to make a comeback. Rich plum purples and vibrant violet purples will be ideal for 2010. They represent a unique standpoint, romance and global diversity, among others. Various shades of orange will also help bring vibrancy to a room. Pairing purple and orange can be a great way to add rich, vibrant color to a space. Of course, be sure not to overdo it unless you're going for a scary Halloween effect. Turquoise has been declared the color of the year. And given recent events along our Gulf Coast, the selection of turquoise as the color of the year pays homage that the sea is key to our livelihoods. Turquoise and blues paired with reds or corals may turn out to be the next trendy color scheme.
Of course, these are only a few of the colors you may be seeing in the design world this year and next. Color is very personal with no specific color being bad. Just take care to work colors properly with balance, structure, and texture. And an interior designer can help you accomplish that goal.
Blue relates to the oceans and water, which is essential to life. Derivatives of blues are relaxing and promote tranquility, peace. Yellows, reds, corals, and coppers relate to flames, in particular the sun and light. They are vibrant and promote vitality. Earth tones naturally relate to soil and metals. Grays and browns are neutral in color and help promote comfort and give us an opportunity to create pleasing contrasting palets of color. Light neutral whites, beiges, and creams relate to air and our atmosphere and promote serenity. They are ethereal, with a weightless luminescence becoming somewhat spiritual. All of these components lead us to green, the symbolic poster color for life. Green is mother nature’s neutral. Botanical elements in a design convey renewal, rebirth, and growth providing a sense of serenity and revitalization.
FOUR COLOUR THEMES FOR 2010
First up are the thoughts from Lee Eiseman, Pantone Colour Institute.
1. Molecular
Includes a purpled wine, a very deep green, a navy black and a coffee brown
2. Byzantine
Includes metallics, shimmery gold, rich reds, vibrant blues and purples.
3. Deconstructing – Reconstructing:
Includes ochre, brown and black are accented with topiary greens and lipstick red.
4. Multiple Identity:
Includes blues, irises and browns along with pink, browns, and roses.
TOP 10 COLOUR TRENDS FOR 2010
Here are the thoughts of Victoria Redshaw, from Trend Forecasters, Scarlet Opus.
1. TURQUOISE: 2010 is a big year for blue and a strong shade of turquoise sets a summery tone that is sure to give an upbeat vibe. Turquoise is very versatile and looks amazing with all sorts of unexpected colours such as Red, Hot Pink, Coral, Chocolate, Malachite Green, Mellow Yellow and Grey!
2. INDIGO: The blue renaissance continues with a deep Indigo. It’s the new Black! It plays a crucial part in moving the whole ‘tribal’ trend forward and gives a sophisticated African aesthetic.
3. MELLOW YELLOW: Get in the mood with Mimosa! It’s time to rethink Yellow and team it with some trendy partners like Grey or Indigo. Yes it gives us a sun-shiney vibe but it can also create very sophisticated room schemes, is unisex and projects colour-confidence without being ‘in your face’!
4. COPPER: Metallics move away from Yellow-Gold towards warmer Copper tones. Expect to also see Bronze and Rose-tinted Golds…and Blackened Gold!
5. GREEN: From Moss to Malachite, Kelly to Chlorophyll…greens are used in 2010 as a literal expression of Green issues being so high profile. Look out for sharp Lime accents popping up in unexpected places!
6. RED: A bold block of rich red delivers sumptuous glamour to dark room schemes and
is also a fantastic peppy accent colour for existing neutral or black & white rooms.
7. PUTTY: 2010 is a year dominated by femininity in design…curvaceous furniture
shapes, soft handle fabrics and nude tones including shades of putty, intimate pinks andsoft blush peach.
8. GREY: This new neutral is here to stay! Use shades of Grey in the same way as you
would cream, beige or white as it works with just about every colour you can think of.
9. CORAL: Striking Coral shades alongside Pink jewel tones and rich Maroons provide an exotic vibe…but Coral can also play a starring role in neutral room schemes that have a calm, beachy aesthetic. It looks great next to the pebble Grey shade!
10. WHITE: It’s the future!
Summing up, yellow, green, and grey will be great colors to work with if you're planning a remodel in 2010. Yellow brings a vibrancy like no other while green is calming and soothing. Combined they can make quite a statement. Just be careful not to overstimulate the yellow. Use yellow in a kitchen, it can stimulate and motivate and even aid in digestion. Another great combination is yellow with grey. This combination is sophisticated and stylish. Meanwhile, using green in a bedroom can create a calming, earthy escape. Purple will also begin to make a comeback. Rich plum purples and vibrant violet purples will be ideal for 2010. They represent a unique standpoint, romance and global diversity, among others. Various shades of orange will also help bring vibrancy to a room. Pairing purple and orange can be a great way to add rich, vibrant color to a space. Of course, be sure not to overdo it unless you're going for a scary Halloween effect. Turquoise has been declared the color of the year. And given recent events along our Gulf Coast, the selection of turquoise as the color of the year pays homage that the sea is key to our livelihoods. Turquoise and blues paired with reds or corals may turn out to be the next trendy color scheme.
Of course, these are only a few of the colors you may be seeing in the design world this year and next. Color is very personal with no specific color being bad. Just take care to work colors properly with balance, structure, and texture. And an interior designer can help you accomplish that goal.
Friday, May 28, 2010
Going Green with HVAC
The number one reason for the green movement within the residential housing industry should be energy conservation. And what is the #1 way to green up your home? It’s not by selecting low or no VOC paints and finishes. And it’s not by using bamboo instead of wood. CFL’s (compact fluorescent lamps) are a good idea but that isn’t #1 either. The best way to go green is to make sure your heating and air-conditioning are working as efficiently as you can make them. Because if your HVAC system isn’t at peak integrity, then you’re negating all the other green steps you’ve taken in your home. HVAC is an acronym for heating, ventilation, and air conditioning. Generally along the Gulf Coast heating isn’t as much of a concern as air-conditioning. After all, it’s conceivable we could run our air conditioning 12 months out of the year during a mild winter.
How does one go about greening up your HVAC system?
1. What is the overall efficiency of your entire system? The efficiency of air conditioners is rated as the Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER). The higher the SEER on an air conditioning unit, the more efficient it is. Central air conditioning units manufactured after 2005 must be a 13 SEER or higher. ENERGY STAR qualified units must be 14 SEER or better.
2. Is ductwork properly sealed and designed properly? Ductwork is located in the attic and walls and in between the floors of a multi-story house. These areas are usually not insulated and if the ductwork isn’t properly sealed the conditioned air will leak into the unconditioned areas. Ductwork can be pressure tested for leaks that aren’t obvious or in inaccessible areas. Leaks in ducts should be sealed with a special kind of air-conditioning tape, not duct tape. And ductwork should be as straight as possible. For every turn in the duct, drag is created in the airflow reducing the efficiency.
3. Is ductwork contained in an extremely hot or cold unconditioned attic? Its not unrealistic that in an unventilated attic, temperatures can reach in excess of 140 degrees on some summer days when the outside temp might only be 95. So it makes sense if you lower the attic temperature, that extreme heat doesn’t have a chance to raise the temp of the air pulsing through the ducts in your attic. How do you do that? One way is to create a basic push pull system of air exchange in the attic. The cooler 95 degree air is pulled into the attic through soffit or ridge vents and the hotter 140 degree air leaves the attic pushed out by ventilation fans or roof turbines. Another way to cool the attic is to apply a radiant barrier to the underside of the roof reflecting the heat out of the attic. The best way to install a radiant barrier in a preexisting home is to have a special radiant paint sprayed on the underside of the roof. This is not a DIY project. A professional should install it. A foil radiant barrier should be installed standard in new homes.
4. And fourth, is your filtration system clean? In order for a system to work efficiently it must receive intake air as a balance to the air it is producing. That air comes from inside your house through your filter. The filter of a system should be changed or cleaned every month. If you’ve got a dirty filter, you’re reducing the amount of air to the unit and recycling that dirt back into your HVAC equipment. You’re running the risk of the condenser freezing up because it isn’t getting enough air and or the pan stopping up from the extra dirt. If either happens, your air conditioning stops cooling and you get hot.
How does one go about greening up your HVAC system?
1. What is the overall efficiency of your entire system? The efficiency of air conditioners is rated as the Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER). The higher the SEER on an air conditioning unit, the more efficient it is. Central air conditioning units manufactured after 2005 must be a 13 SEER or higher. ENERGY STAR qualified units must be 14 SEER or better.
2. Is ductwork properly sealed and designed properly? Ductwork is located in the attic and walls and in between the floors of a multi-story house. These areas are usually not insulated and if the ductwork isn’t properly sealed the conditioned air will leak into the unconditioned areas. Ductwork can be pressure tested for leaks that aren’t obvious or in inaccessible areas. Leaks in ducts should be sealed with a special kind of air-conditioning tape, not duct tape. And ductwork should be as straight as possible. For every turn in the duct, drag is created in the airflow reducing the efficiency.
3. Is ductwork contained in an extremely hot or cold unconditioned attic? Its not unrealistic that in an unventilated attic, temperatures can reach in excess of 140 degrees on some summer days when the outside temp might only be 95. So it makes sense if you lower the attic temperature, that extreme heat doesn’t have a chance to raise the temp of the air pulsing through the ducts in your attic. How do you do that? One way is to create a basic push pull system of air exchange in the attic. The cooler 95 degree air is pulled into the attic through soffit or ridge vents and the hotter 140 degree air leaves the attic pushed out by ventilation fans or roof turbines. Another way to cool the attic is to apply a radiant barrier to the underside of the roof reflecting the heat out of the attic. The best way to install a radiant barrier in a preexisting home is to have a special radiant paint sprayed on the underside of the roof. This is not a DIY project. A professional should install it. A foil radiant barrier should be installed standard in new homes.
4. And fourth, is your filtration system clean? In order for a system to work efficiently it must receive intake air as a balance to the air it is producing. That air comes from inside your house through your filter. The filter of a system should be changed or cleaned every month. If you’ve got a dirty filter, you’re reducing the amount of air to the unit and recycling that dirt back into your HVAC equipment. You’re running the risk of the condenser freezing up because it isn’t getting enough air and or the pan stopping up from the extra dirt. If either happens, your air conditioning stops cooling and you get hot.
Thursday, May 27, 2010
Just Add a Dash of Lighting!
If your home is like every other home in the US, the kitchen is the heart of it. When you have gatherings, it’s where everyone chooses to hang out. A well-lit room is welcoming and emits positive energy. Task lighting, ambient lighting…all types of lighting come into play in a kitchen, even mood lighting, as we like to call it, to add a certain romance to the space. One of our signatures in a kitchen lighting design is mini pendants. They come in so many options and colors. The choices are endless. It can be overwhelming for a homeowner to choose. That’s why you need BK Design Associates. To narrow the selections and make the perfect choice for you.
The greatest lighting to hit the market recently is LED (Light-emitting diode) lighting. New fixtures are being introduced faster than we can keep up with, partly because of the EPA’s decision to ban the 100 watt light bulb. But the drive for more efficient, longer lasting lighting is also a reason for the new technology. LED undercabinet lighting is compact, extremely efficient, and produces a very pleasing light for tasking in the kitchen. And surprisingly, it’s affordable so you won’t have to sell your first born to install it. Once again BK Design Associates can work with you to specify the correct fixtures and manage the installation.
Tuesday, May 25, 2010
How to Define Your Interior Design Budget
When you decide it’s time to purchase a new car, the amount of money you want to spend is probably at the top of your list of decisions to make. The amount of money you’ll be spending usually dictates what kind of car you’ll buy, if it will be new or used, compact or full size, cloth or leather seats, etc. At that point you go to the dealership and start negotiating with the sales person. The sales person knows approximately how much money you’ll be spending on this new car and realistically you’re negotiating small amounts of money at that point. But when you call an interior designer in for help why do people hesitate to share their budget. It becomes a mind reading game if you don’t give the designer some budget range, at the very least. If there isn’t a budget, then where do we start? Just like a Lexus costs more than a Ford Fiesta, there are all sorts of furniture and fabric grades. Maybe you think this is an assumption the designer should make but that’s just not fair to the designer. He or she can waste valuable time making the perfect selections for you only to realize once presented, that the unknown budget has been busted. I’ll admit, there are some that believe budget is an arbitrary number that is meant to be abused. But if you’ve done your homework and selected the right interior designer, then he or she is going to respect that number and honor it like his or her parents. It’s important to not confuse the word “budget” with “blank check”.
Your budget should be the amount of money you are willing to spend to achieve the result you are looking for. Whether it’s a lump sum of money you have set aside specifically or money that you have built into your monthly allowances, you are comfortable with this amount of money you intend to spend. Then please share this number with your designer. It’s critical to a successful relationship with your designer and thus a successful design. Do you have to tell your designer the exact number you’re willing to spend? I’d say no. Actually I think it’s a good idea to hold back some percentage just in case… just-in-case you see an antique armoire you can’t live without, or a plug needs to be moved over 2 feet so that antique armoire will work, or termites have decided to take up residence in your walls. The point is contingency budgets are a good idea. We have one and so should you.
Then there is the fairy tale of TV design show budgets. Please do remember the projects you see on TV are not real. There are typically 2 budgets. The TV show itself has a budget that usually includes labor costs and the side deals they have with vendors who are getting free advertising, which aren’t shared with the viewer. And then there is the 1000 dollar, redo-the-whole-house, no-way-this-is-even-possible budget. Another facet of TV design is you can’t do a close-up inspection of the quality of work on a completed project. I’d bet these projects would never pass muster with my clients on a cloudy day, much less a sunny day.
Please do consider the quality of work you’ll be happy with when deciding on a budget. As an example, I can have a mural painted by a master and spend a large sum of money. Or I can have my neighbor’s 3-year-old paint a mural and spend next to nothing. Both technically are murals. The point is, if you expect perfection and top of the line quality, then share that with the designer. It impacts the bottom line. If you’re willing to settle for something less than perfect and go cheap, speak up. But don’t go cheap on your budget and then expect perfect masterpieces and top-of-the-line merchandise. That expectation is not realistic today. It used to be. But today there are too many choices and options for labor and merchandise. Just remember you get what you pay for. If you pay cheap or nothing, you’re usually getting cheap or nothing. If your expectations are high, then your budget should follow suit.
Once you’ve decided how much money you will spend, decide exactly what you want to accomplish with this budget. Are we doing the kitchen only? The kitchen and the adjoining breakfast? Then it’s your designer’s job to allocate how much should be spent on each area and share with you. If you don’t get some sort of spreadsheet with a line item break down before one dollar is spent, something is wrong. And it is just good business to know exactly how much items will cost before anything is purchased. In our practice, our clients get a written purchase contract (in addition to a written letter of agreement for the design fee) on anything costing over $500.
Lastly consider we all have budgets. That shouldn’t be a foreign word or something you feel you have to apologize for. If you have a small budget but high expectations, consider doing things in phases. A good designer doesn’t have a problem working this way. After all what better than to have a client for a while. That’s a good designer’s goal anyway…to make our client so happy that they’re clients for life!
Your budget should be the amount of money you are willing to spend to achieve the result you are looking for. Whether it’s a lump sum of money you have set aside specifically or money that you have built into your monthly allowances, you are comfortable with this amount of money you intend to spend. Then please share this number with your designer. It’s critical to a successful relationship with your designer and thus a successful design. Do you have to tell your designer the exact number you’re willing to spend? I’d say no. Actually I think it’s a good idea to hold back some percentage just in case… just-in-case you see an antique armoire you can’t live without, or a plug needs to be moved over 2 feet so that antique armoire will work, or termites have decided to take up residence in your walls. The point is contingency budgets are a good idea. We have one and so should you.
Then there is the fairy tale of TV design show budgets. Please do remember the projects you see on TV are not real. There are typically 2 budgets. The TV show itself has a budget that usually includes labor costs and the side deals they have with vendors who are getting free advertising, which aren’t shared with the viewer. And then there is the 1000 dollar, redo-the-whole-house, no-way-this-is-even-possible budget. Another facet of TV design is you can’t do a close-up inspection of the quality of work on a completed project. I’d bet these projects would never pass muster with my clients on a cloudy day, much less a sunny day.
Please do consider the quality of work you’ll be happy with when deciding on a budget. As an example, I can have a mural painted by a master and spend a large sum of money. Or I can have my neighbor’s 3-year-old paint a mural and spend next to nothing. Both technically are murals. The point is, if you expect perfection and top of the line quality, then share that with the designer. It impacts the bottom line. If you’re willing to settle for something less than perfect and go cheap, speak up. But don’t go cheap on your budget and then expect perfect masterpieces and top-of-the-line merchandise. That expectation is not realistic today. It used to be. But today there are too many choices and options for labor and merchandise. Just remember you get what you pay for. If you pay cheap or nothing, you’re usually getting cheap or nothing. If your expectations are high, then your budget should follow suit.
Once you’ve decided how much money you will spend, decide exactly what you want to accomplish with this budget. Are we doing the kitchen only? The kitchen and the adjoining breakfast? Then it’s your designer’s job to allocate how much should be spent on each area and share with you. If you don’t get some sort of spreadsheet with a line item break down before one dollar is spent, something is wrong. And it is just good business to know exactly how much items will cost before anything is purchased. In our practice, our clients get a written purchase contract (in addition to a written letter of agreement for the design fee) on anything costing over $500.
Lastly consider we all have budgets. That shouldn’t be a foreign word or something you feel you have to apologize for. If you have a small budget but high expectations, consider doing things in phases. A good designer doesn’t have a problem working this way. After all what better than to have a client for a while. That’s a good designer’s goal anyway…to make our client so happy that they’re clients for life!
Wednesday, March 3, 2010
The Aluminum Wood Folding Door System
New!
The Aluminum Wood Folding Door System combines the consistency and strength of aluminum with the beauty of a real wood interior.
The Aluminum Wood system is catching attention by simply providing everything you want in a low maintenance folding door system. The system features:
2 1/4" thick panel for more durability and strength
3 5/8" wide stile and rail up to 10' tall
New thermally broken frame for extreme climates
A selection of color options (Custom colors have an extended lead time)
Concealed locking throughout for a sleek look
Promotional pricing through June 30th
Enquire today by calling 281.531.4242
Tuesday, March 2, 2010
Micro Wind Turbines by Philippe Starck
When home owners think green, they are thinking about ways to conserve energy and reducing their own energy costs. Philippe Starck, a cutting edge French designer best known for chic hotels, contemporary furniture and household items, is throwing his hat into the ring of alternative energy product development with the introduction of two sleek micro wind-power turbines geared toward domestic use. Starck and the Italian company Pramac have unveiled Revolutionair, a collection of two micro wind turbine typologies designed for residential applications and small businesses. Revolutionair WT 400W is a quadrangular device with a power output of 400w and the Revolutionair WT 1KW is a helicoidal-shaped turbine that can generate power of 1kw when the wind blows at a speed of 14mps. The blades of both the two types are made of transparent plastic, giving the products a virtually invisible aesthetic. Starck explained, ”I would love to see them on sale in supermarkets.” The turbines will be made in the Tuscan city of Siena. They can be placed in the garden or on the roof. Prices will begin around 2,500 euros and 3,500 euros respectively and estimated installation costs are between 1,000 and 2,000 euros. Although families could need three turbines to meet their energy needs, it is still believed that lower electricity bills could make this a cost-effective solution. When will we see them in the US?
Thursday, February 25, 2010
New Rules for Renovation, Repair and Painting
In April of this year a new EPA rule will go into effect for all homes, childcare facilities, and schools built before 1978. Anyone working in housing and child-occupied facilities built prior to 1978 on common renovation activities such as sanding, cutting, and demolition that disturbs lead-based paint must be certified and must follow specific work practices to prevent lead contamination. This rule establishes requirements for training renovators, other renovation workers, and dust sampling technicians; for certifying renovators, dust sampling technicians, and renovation firms; for accrediting providers of renovation and dust sampling technician training; for renovation work practices; and for record keeping.
How this rule will be enforced has yet to be determined. But the key question you should be asking is “Does this affect me?” If your home or apartment was built prior to 1978 then this rule absolutely applies to you. It also applies to any facility, public or commercial, that is visited by the same child, under 6 years of age on at least 2 different days within any week and the visits last at least 3 hours each time and the combined annual visits last at least 60 hours. The only exempt housing is that for the elderly or persons with disabilities (unless any child under age 6 resides or is expected to reside in such housing). Residential remodelers should be aware of this rule, as well as multi family maintenance crews, school maintenance crews, plumbers, heating and air conditioning contractors, electrical contractors…and the list goes on and on. Actions that potentially release lead dust and disturbs more than 6 square feet of interior surface space in a room and/or 20 square feet of exterior surface space are: painting and sanding; paint removal by any means; kitchen cabinet removal; replacing boards, soffits, or trim; window replacement; flooring removal and installation; HVAC repair or replacement, including duct work; drilling or sawing into wood or plaster…once again the list goes on and on. And as a homeowner residing at the property in question if no child under the age of 6 resides there, that no pregnant woman resides there, and that the property is not a child-occupied facility, you have the authority to opt out of this regulation. But you must provide documentation to that effect to your contractor.
Therefore effective April 22, 2010, federal law will require that contractors performing renovation, repair and painting projects that disturb lead-based paint in homes, child care facilities, and schools built before 1978 to be certified and follow specific work practices to prevent lead contamination. BK Design Associates is exploring whether this law will affect our operations. We do not believe it will since the homes we perform work in usually were built after 1978. At the least, we would need to test for the presence of lead if your home was built prior to 1978 and then determine the best course of action to follow. Please call us for more information at 281-531-4242.
How this rule will be enforced has yet to be determined. But the key question you should be asking is “Does this affect me?” If your home or apartment was built prior to 1978 then this rule absolutely applies to you. It also applies to any facility, public or commercial, that is visited by the same child, under 6 years of age on at least 2 different days within any week and the visits last at least 3 hours each time and the combined annual visits last at least 60 hours. The only exempt housing is that for the elderly or persons with disabilities (unless any child under age 6 resides or is expected to reside in such housing). Residential remodelers should be aware of this rule, as well as multi family maintenance crews, school maintenance crews, plumbers, heating and air conditioning contractors, electrical contractors…and the list goes on and on. Actions that potentially release lead dust and disturbs more than 6 square feet of interior surface space in a room and/or 20 square feet of exterior surface space are: painting and sanding; paint removal by any means; kitchen cabinet removal; replacing boards, soffits, or trim; window replacement; flooring removal and installation; HVAC repair or replacement, including duct work; drilling or sawing into wood or plaster…once again the list goes on and on. And as a homeowner residing at the property in question if no child under the age of 6 resides there, that no pregnant woman resides there, and that the property is not a child-occupied facility, you have the authority to opt out of this regulation. But you must provide documentation to that effect to your contractor.
Therefore effective April 22, 2010, federal law will require that contractors performing renovation, repair and painting projects that disturb lead-based paint in homes, child care facilities, and schools built before 1978 to be certified and follow specific work practices to prevent lead contamination. BK Design Associates is exploring whether this law will affect our operations. We do not believe it will since the homes we perform work in usually were built after 1978. At the least, we would need to test for the presence of lead if your home was built prior to 1978 and then determine the best course of action to follow. Please call us for more information at 281-531-4242.
Wednesday, February 24, 2010
A Smart Solution for Small Screens
Here's a product that's sure to clear the clutter from your work surface. The Ascent is a slim and compact, mechanical lift for small television and computer screens up to 14.5 pounds, 17.5" tall, and 22" diagonally. The Ascent conceals and secures screens when not in use, keeping surfaces free of clutter. To operate, the user presses the top of the lift support column, activating it to rise in about 2 seconds. This product does not require power; movement is controlled through counterbalancing weights. The support column swivels left and right 112.5º, which expands viewing angles. The Ascent is easy to integrate into kitchens, office furniture, and entertainment center cabinetry. BK Design Associates can help you design the perfect work space. Call us today 281-531-4242.
Thursday, February 11, 2010
BATHROOM PLANNING TIPS
Floor Space
Plan for clear floor space of at least 30” in front of all fixtures and between opposing walls.
Minimum distance in front of sinks, tubs, and toilets should be 21”. Minimum distance in front of showers is 24”.
Vanity Height
There is no standard vanity height. Vanity height should be appropriate to the end user. Typically vanities are to be 32” high to 43”.
Showers Valves
Code requires shower and tub/shower control valves must be one of the following:
-pressure balanced
-thermostatic mixing
-combination pressure balance/thermostatic mixing valve types.
Consult with a licensed plumber when planning a bath.
Shower and Tub Controls
Controls should be accessible from inside and outside the shower spray area.
Shower Size
There are no hard and fast rules to the maximum size of a shower. However the recommended minimum size of a shower is 30” by 30” floor area.
Shower Seats
Height of a shower seat should be standard seat height between 17” and 19”. The seat area should be in addition to the minimum shower floor area.
Shower Doors
Glass shower doors should always be made of tempered glass and marked “tempered glass”.
Windows in close proximity of any shower or tub should also be of tempered glass.
Steps
Steps around or in any wet area, including tubs, are not recommended. If steps must be included in the design plan, grab bars are mandatory.
Flooring
Slip resistant flooring should always be used in the bath.
Accessories
Mirrors should be placed above or near the lavatory that takes the user's eye height into consideration.
Toilet paper holders should be located 8" - 12" in front of the edge of the toilet bowl, at a minimum 26" above the floor.
Towel holders, soap dishes, etc., should be conveniently located near all bath fixtures.
Electrical Receptacles and Switches
All receptacles in the bath must be protected by Ground-fault-circuit-interrupters (GFCI).
A receptacle or switch should not be installed within a shower or bathtub space.
Switches, as part of the listed tub or shower assembly, are okay, such as an air switch to operate a whirlpool tub.
Consult a licensed electrician when planning a bath.
Ventilation
Do plan for a mechanical ventilation system of at least 50 cubic feet per minute ducted to the outside if you do not have a window of at least 3 sq. ft. of which 50% is operable.
Lighting
All light fixtures should be marked "suitable for damp/wet locations". Hanging fixtures are not recommended in baths.
Luxury baths today include fancy vanity furniture, elegant stone tile, frameless glass shower and tub doors, steam showers, wet and dry saunas, oversized whirlpool or air tubs, integrated all-mirrored medicine cabinets, coffee bars, seating areas, personal showers including multiple shower heads, body sprays, hand held showers, and storage, storage, storage. Please call BK Design Associates for help planning your own personal sanctuary.
Call 281-531-4242 today.
The information contained herein is provided as a public service with the understanding that BK Design Associates makes no warranties, either expressed or implied, concerning the accuracy, completeness, reliability, or suitability of the information.
Plan for clear floor space of at least 30” in front of all fixtures and between opposing walls.
Minimum distance in front of sinks, tubs, and toilets should be 21”. Minimum distance in front of showers is 24”.
Vanity Height
There is no standard vanity height. Vanity height should be appropriate to the end user. Typically vanities are to be 32” high to 43”.
Showers Valves
Code requires shower and tub/shower control valves must be one of the following:
-pressure balanced
-thermostatic mixing
-combination pressure balance/thermostatic mixing valve types.
Consult with a licensed plumber when planning a bath.
Shower and Tub Controls
Controls should be accessible from inside and outside the shower spray area.
Shower Size
There are no hard and fast rules to the maximum size of a shower. However the recommended minimum size of a shower is 30” by 30” floor area.
Shower Seats
Height of a shower seat should be standard seat height between 17” and 19”. The seat area should be in addition to the minimum shower floor area.
Shower Doors
Glass shower doors should always be made of tempered glass and marked “tempered glass”.
Windows in close proximity of any shower or tub should also be of tempered glass.
Steps
Steps around or in any wet area, including tubs, are not recommended. If steps must be included in the design plan, grab bars are mandatory.
Flooring
Slip resistant flooring should always be used in the bath.
Accessories
Mirrors should be placed above or near the lavatory that takes the user's eye height into consideration.
Toilet paper holders should be located 8" - 12" in front of the edge of the toilet bowl, at a minimum 26" above the floor.
Towel holders, soap dishes, etc., should be conveniently located near all bath fixtures.
Electrical Receptacles and Switches
All receptacles in the bath must be protected by Ground-fault-circuit-interrupters (GFCI).
A receptacle or switch should not be installed within a shower or bathtub space.
Switches, as part of the listed tub or shower assembly, are okay, such as an air switch to operate a whirlpool tub.
Consult a licensed electrician when planning a bath.
Ventilation
Do plan for a mechanical ventilation system of at least 50 cubic feet per minute ducted to the outside if you do not have a window of at least 3 sq. ft. of which 50% is operable.
Lighting
All light fixtures should be marked "suitable for damp/wet locations". Hanging fixtures are not recommended in baths.
Luxury baths today include fancy vanity furniture, elegant stone tile, frameless glass shower and tub doors, steam showers, wet and dry saunas, oversized whirlpool or air tubs, integrated all-mirrored medicine cabinets, coffee bars, seating areas, personal showers including multiple shower heads, body sprays, hand held showers, and storage, storage, storage. Please call BK Design Associates for help planning your own personal sanctuary.
Call 281-531-4242 today.
The information contained herein is provided as a public service with the understanding that BK Design Associates makes no warranties, either expressed or implied, concerning the accuracy, completeness, reliability, or suitability of the information.
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